The Slower Side of Life – Guide to Mallorca
In 1955, the first charter travel from Stockholm to Palma was arranged. The trip lasted 16 days and became the start of democratization of travelling. For centuries, travelling for leisure had been an exclusive activity, reserved for the wealthy elite. In the middle of the 20th century, consumer culture changed radically across the world. Fashionable clothes were now mass-produced and democratically priced. In Europe, vacation time had become regulated by law, and international travel now became achievable even for the working class. In theory, this development was a sign of social progress: More people had access to the luxuries of the world and could enjoy what previously had been unattainable. In practice, the democratization of fashion and travel was quickly destroying the world. The climate was changing and previously unspoiled areas were now commercialized to accommodate the ever-increasing flow of tourists. Islands are particularly vulnerable to this kind of pressure, as water is generally scarce and the ecosystem easily altered.
How to solve the problem? Life is meant to be lived and to be enjoyed. To travel is to explore and to learn, to find oneself and become educated about the lives of others. Travelling also offers a respite from the monotony of the everyday. It is a fact that travel (like fashion) can never be completely sustainable. Almost 70% of travellers state that it is important that their trip benefits the local community, and they also want to know that they money they spend go to local communities rather than multinational corporations and chains. Three quarters of travellers are now looking for authentic experiences, representative of the local culture.
In the outskirts of Palma, the Fundació Pilar I Joan Miró is a cultural centre based around Miró’s art studio, designed by architect Josep Lluis Sert in 1956. The purpose of the centre is to promote knowledge and to create social links, both at a local and international level, focusing on subjects associated with Joan Miró’s work.
On Mallorca, there are many beautiful, small towns off the beaten track. The inlands of the island are still to a large degree unexploited. In contrast to the town Alcudia and its surrounding area. And the west coast has kept its traditional scale of small houses, often clustered in quaint villages.
Voted one of the most beautiful towns in Spain, Fornalutx is far from sandy beaches and turquoise water, which could be the reason it has been able to keep its traditional charm and local cuisine, often made from organically sourced ingredients. In the middle of the town is the small hotel Can Verdera, situated in an ancient building surrounded by tranquil gardens and decorated with art by mainly Mediterranean artists. Every Saturday before noon there is a local market in town. To visit Fornalutx is to catch a glimpse of old Mallorca in its most refined version.
Another place to visit is Deià. It has been a long favourite among artists and other creative minds since the 1950s. They are drawn here by the light and beautiful setting, which has awarded Deià World Heritage Status for the ways in which nature, culture, and local traditions merge. The local draining system (still in use today) was installed during Arab rule in the 8th century. This is also when the village was awarded its name, stemming from “ad daia”, meaning “hamlet”.
n 1887, the Austrian Archduke Lluis Salvador fell in love with the area and bought as much land around Deià and nearby Valldemossa as possible, to prevent the felling of trees and as a way to preserve the landscape. The local shop Es Forn offers fresh, local produce while the Michelin-starred Es Racó d’Es Teix is an option for those seeking fine dining. The town has several charming restaurants and is a nice, laid-back place to stay a few days or even a week.
Close to Deià is the town of Sóller, in a valley of orange groves (which is how the town became wealthy) and famous for its antique train, still transporting visitors between the town and the nearby coast. Sóller is also home to the art museum Can Prunera and the Church of Saint Bartholomew, which can be seen from almost anywhere in the valley. The original church was built in the 16th century.
In 1904, Joan Rubió, a disciple of Antoni Gaudí, was invited to renovate the building, mixing the baroque elements and Gothic interior with an unsual, modernist façade. It’s actually possible to walk between Sóller and Fornalutx, by following a series of pathways, passing through the hamlet of Binibassi.
Continuing north from Soller, Sa Calobra is one of the world’s most scenic roads. It is 13 kilomtres long and ends where the road meets the sea. Built in 1932, designed by engineer Antonio Paretti, it winds around several mountain edges, a masterpiece of twists and turns. To reduce the amount of excavation, the architect drew inspiration from a necktie to come up with how to create the loops in the road. It was built manually, without any machines and was deliberately designed to avoid tunnels. Reaching the beach at the end of the road takes approximately 25 minutes, but the reward is turquoise sea and stunning views of the cliffs.
Paretti also designed another, similarly breathtaking route on Mallorca; the road to the Cap de Formentor lighthouse. Driving on these roads after dark is an eerie experience, but worth it in order to catch the sunset from one of the best places on the island.
In the area surrounding Sa Calobra, in the massif Serra de Tramuntana, the mountains are the highest and the cliffs the steepest on all of Mallorca. There are two water reservoirs, of which Cúber is the most scenic. Around this lake, it is possible to go for long walks along the water, while sheep roam freely in the bushes and among the trees.
Mallorca produces many excellent wines, but only two that are produced biodynamically. Herbicides and pesticides are banned. The winery Mesquida Mara has been running for approximately fifteen years, taking over production with soil that was almost dead and without nutrients. Gradually, life has returned to this place and today they produce seven different wines.
The other biodynamic winery is Can Felly has been in operation since 2010, using mainly locally sourced grapes. Initially, the founder Carlos Feliu ran a hotel, and the vines were more or less decorative elements, and the grapes sold as they were. One day he decided to start producing wine, and today Can Feliu offers the possibility for guests to stay the night in the middle of an active vineyard. Their “Binerbo” is made from 60% Cabarnet and 40% Callet, while their Alé de Merlot is made from 100% Merlot grapes.
Mallorca also provides ample opportunities to relax and enjoy nature. The sea is all around, the sun shines almost every day, the air is fresh and the mountains dramatic, both from afar and to visit.
