Lost in Kimonoland: 10 stories of fashion in Japan

Japan is undoubtedly one of the world’s most dynamic fashion playgrounds, where the prevailing approach is looking modest yet highly conceptual. During my recent trip there, I had the opportunity to immerse myself in the diverse tapestry of Japanese fashion. I explored, observed, and experienced first-hand the unique blend of tradition and innovation that defines the country’s style. Some of these fashion narratives are deeply rooted in Japan’s cultural heritage, while others reflect the influence of global trends and foreign designs. The result is a fascinating fusion, like pairing Maison Margiela’s tabi loafers with a traditional Japanese kimono. Below, I’ve compiled 10 key insights that, in my view, are shaping the current landscape of fashion in Japan.

What is your shifuku?

While in Japan, there is a strong belief that every woman has her own “shifuku” – a unique personal style. After my extended stay there, I can confidently attest to this. Each woman, regardless of age, pays meticulous attention to her appearance, ensuring that her style is both authentic and presentable. The latter is of particular importance. Women (and men, too!) are always impeccably dressed in neat and clean clothing, maintaining a tidy and fresh look. Though this does not imply boredom, not at all! The Japanese are masters at striking the perfect balance in their shifuku. They manage to be neat yet edgy, modest yet conceptual, each in their own distinctive way.

Subway=Runway

Riding the subway in Japan is like sitting in the front row of a fashion show. While the specific vibe may vary slightly depending on your route and destination, in general, it’s a fantastic way to do some “fashion sightseeing.” Japanese cities are vast, and even CEOs often commute by subway, giving you the chance to observe a wide array of styles—from business suits to romantic Lolitas. Yet, despite this diversity, no one seems surprised or fazed by the variety. People rarely look up from their phones, absorbed in their screens rather than the unique fashion around them.

Phenomenon of Kimono

Yes, the kimono is still very much alive and thriving. Worn for over a thousand years, it remains the national dress of Japan, carrying with it a rich history and deep-rooted traditions. In many contexts, a kimono is more than just clothing – it is a sublime piece of art, with outstanding designs that have evolved over centuries. From solid and simple to bold and intricate, adorned with elaborate floral or animal embroidery, the sumptuous world of kimono art has gracefully embraced the present, incorporating contemporary modifications. Today’s kimono designers continue to preserve the craftsmanship of traditional Japanese kimonos, while also introducing these garments as high fashion, transcending the bounds of national dress. Indeed, outside Japan, many still see kimonos as a cultural legacy or national costume. However, the kimono has proven its ability to transcend geographical and cultural barriers. I am personally a proud owner and wearer of several contemporary kimono designs.

Japanese kind of flip-flops

If one starts talking about kimonos, the conversation naturally extends to géta – the traditional wooden sandals often worn with them. I must confess, I fell in love with their stunning contemporary designs during my visits to local fashion concept stores in Japan. What’s fascinating is that traditional géta are distinguished by their unique “teeth”—the supporting pieces of wood attached to the sole. While they might remind you of the platform shoes of the ’70s, géta weren’t originally designed for fashion. Instead, they provided enough height to keep the beautiful kimono from dragging in the mud or snow. Today, however, wearing géta (if one is up to the challenge) has become quite the fashion statement – and I couldn’t resist indulging in it myself!

Everything adorable, besides Lolita

Although Japan is still often associated with its fearless samurai and graceful geishas, modern Japanese culture has taken a strikingly different turn. Today, Japan is synonymous with something entirely new – Kawaii fashion. This movement is essentially centred around the appeal of cuteness, with its essence deeply rooted in childhood nostalgia. The Kawaii aesthetic is characterized by adorable, infantile characters, clothing in vibrant bubble-gum hues, and wide, innocent, unblinking eyes. For those looking to experience Kawaii culture at its peak, the Harajuku district in Tokyo is the place to be. Young people have made this fashion hub their own, filling the streets with their colourful and extravagant outfits.

Minimalist but not minimal

In sharp contrast to the bold and playful flamboyance of Harajuku and Kawaii styles, Japanese minimalism offers an entirely different aesthetic perspective, with the colour black often reigning supreme. Characterized by clean lines, earthy colour palettes, and a strong emphasis on functionality rooted in the philosophy of “less is more,” Japanese minimalist fashion exudes understated elegance and sophistication. This aesthetic is often enriched with unique avant-garde touches. Minimalism in Japan also reflects a deep desire for harmony and a celebration of nature, expressed through the use of materials and textures in their purest forms. In this context, black has always been the “new black” in Japan, symbolizing both solemnity and dignity – qualities that are deeply ingrained in the physical and metaphysical aspects of Japanese culture.

Three legends

Japanese fashion wouldn’t be what it is today without the contributions of three legendary designers: Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons, and Issey Miyake. These visionaries have become synonymous with minimalist fashion, showcasing avant-garde creations that have paved the way for Japanese fashion on international runways. Their conceptual designs often feature asymmetrical cuts, draping, innovative fabric use, and monochromatic colour palettes. As a devoted fan of these designers, I couldn’t resist exploring their work: on my last visit, I spent three hours (!) trying on various pieces at the Comme des Garçons flagship store. Similarly, I couldn’t walk past an Issey Miyake store without stepping in – it felt like skipping the best gallery in town, where each piece of clothing is displayed as a work of art.

Coat is the king

This was something that left me with a “wow” effect: the overwhelming number of Japanese people, especially men, wearing high-quality, beautifully designed coats instead of the usual outdoor sporty jackets and parkas. While I have nothing against the latter, seeing so many stylish coats was certainly a refreshing change. It even felt as though the coat in Japan embodies all the key elements of Japanese fashion: architectural design, oversized cuts, earthy colours, and natural fabrics. It may sound like Scandinavian minimalism, but it’s definitely not. It may resemble bland normcore, but it’s far from that. Sounds like avant-garde quite elegance, it certainly is.

Mecca of suits

In the urban jungle of Japan, every man is expected to wear a suit. This isn’t just about blending in; the suit functions as social armour – formal masculinity that reflects the ideals of respect, authority, and taste. These three values are incredibly important in Japan. Moreover, the phenomenon of the “suited army” is tied to the fact that Japanese people are always working – whether on their way to work, at work, on their way home from work, or in the evening, socializing with colleagues at izakayas (popular spots for drinking, eating, and unwinding). And yes, they do all of this in suits. I found myself feeling like Indiana Jones, navigating through a swarm of these urban bees.

Japanese fashion paradox

Ranking third in the global apparel market, Japan’s fashion scene is a refined blend of tradition and innovation, though lately, it’s also become a less refined mix of high-end and fast fashion. The local fashion ecosystem has adeptly adapted to Western trends while also setting its own. Unfortunately, one of the negative trends is that Japan is once again ranked third globally in fast fashion consumption. Although Japanese consumers have traditionally valued quality and are willing to pay for it, the younger generation is increasingly gravitating toward lower-priced, trend-driven fast fashion, mostly produced outside Japan. A stroll through Ginza, Tokyo’s exclusive shopping district, perfectly illustrates this fashion paradox—where Hermès retail store stands next to Zara.

Text author & photos: Aušra Juozapaitytė