Fashion Photographers Elevating Garment Visualization to Fine Art
More than just another form of photography, fashion photography is an artistic endeavour. Its purpose is to capture and display clothing and fashion accessories in the most striking and creative ways possible. Behind the camera are individuals with fearless vision and an insatiable passion for experimentation. Through their work, they inspire us, drawing into a world where fashion and art seamlessly merge. In this piece, I present a carefully curated selection of 9 (please share in comments who could be the 10th one!) renowned fashion photographers worth exploring beyond the iconic legends, such as Mr. Newton, Ms Leibovitz or Mr. Avedon.
Edward Steichen (1879-1973): The Pioneer
Edward Steichen, a Luxembourg-born American artist and gallerist, was a pivotal figure in the development of photography and a pioneer of modern fashion photography. He revolutionized the field with his technical skills and mastery of light, transforming photography into a true art form.
In 1911, Steichen’s gown images for the magazine Art et Décoration were the first modern fashion photographs to be published. From 1923 to 1938, he served as the chief photographer for Condé Nast magazines Vogue and Vanity Fair, while also working for numerous advertising agencies. Steichen was regarded as the best-known and highest-paid commercial photographer of his time.
Steichen’s greatest accomplishment was blurring the lines between celebrity portraiture, fashion photography, and advertising. He created a hybrid genre of images that combined glamour and desire, a style that continues to dominate magazine photography today.
George Hoyningen-Huene (1900-1968): The Visionary
George Hoyningen-Huene, born in St. Petersburg, Russia, emerged as a visionary in fashion photography. In the early 1920s, he moved to Paris, initially working as an illustrator before transitioning to photography for Vogue. By 1925, he had established himself as the Chief of Photography for French Vogue, becoming one of the pioneers in capturing the essence of Parisian haute couture.
In 1931, Hoyningen-Huene met Horst P. Horst, who would become his model, collaborator, and partner. Moving to New York in 1935, he began working almost exclusively for Harper’s Bazaar. Hoyningen-Huene played a crucial role in developing the iconography of classic fashion photography, excelling in stylish studio compositions that utilized shadows and elaborate lighting. Notably, he was also among the first photographers to take overhead shots of models.
Cecil Beaton (1904-1980): The Elegant
Cecil Beaton was a British photographer, illustrator, and designer celebrated for his enduring fascination with glamour and high society. His sophisticated and unique photographs of celebrities and royalty are known for their decorative style, intriguing compositions, staged poses, and imaginative, often surreal sets. Beaton had a talent for capturing the distinct personalities of his subjects, showcasing them in ways that highlighted aspects of their character not seen in other portraits. This approach made his subjects more relatable and endearing to the public, helping to establish or reinforce their status as iconic social figures.
Beaton’s work in costume and stage design earned him three Academy Awards, including one for “My Fair Lady” (1964). He contributed to numerous esteemed publications, such as Condé Nast, Vanity Fair, and Vogue. During World War II, his focus shifted to documenting the harsh realities of war across the United Kingdom and Europe, leading to a prolific and diverse career. By elevating fashion and portrait photography to an art form, his era-defining photographs captured the beauty, glamour, and star power of the interwar and early post-war periods.
Norman Parkinson (1913-1990): The Spontaneous
Born in 1913 in London, Norman Parkinson emerged as one of the twentieth century’s most renowned fashion photographers. His illustrious career, spanning six decades, captivated the world and transformed the field of portrait and fashion photography. Parkinson broke away from the rigid, posed styles of the past, bringing a dynamic and imaginative flair to his work. He was a pioneer in using outdoor locations around the globe, significantly contributing to the rise of the supermodel.
Parkinson also breathed new life into celebrity portraiture, photographing legendary figures such as Audrey Hepburn, Jerry Hall, David Bowie, The Beatles, The Rolling Stones, Twiggy, and Jane Birkin. His enduring relationship with Vogue, along with numerous assignments for Harper’s Bazaar, Queen, Town & Country, and other international magazines, garnered him global acclaim.
Peter Lindbergh (1944-2019): The Natural
The master of black and white photography, Peter Lindbergh is recognized as one of the most influential photographers in the world. He revolutionized fashion photography and the portrayal of his subjects. Throughout his career, he captured numerous cover photos for top fashion and lifestyle magazines. In 1990, his work was instrumental in launching the careers of supermodels like Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, and Christy Turlington. Lindbergh’s gentle and perceptive gaze revealed a unique blend of femininity and masculinity in his images.
His iconic photographs of women draw inspiration from early narrative cinema, street photography, as well as his Eastern European heritage (born in Poland, raised in Germany). In his editorial work for Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Interview, and other international publications, Lindbergh replaced staged, glamorous shots with a vérité style, characterized by high-contrast black-and-white photography. He celebrated the human form through body movement, particularly modern dance, merging elements of antiquity and modernity. His work has profoundly influenced generations of photographers, designers, and other creatives.
Ellen von Unwerth (1954): The Sensual
Ellen von Unwerth, a German photographer, initially embarked on her career as a fashion model. However, she soon realized that modelling didn’t offer her the creative control she desired over her image, leading von Unwerth to switch to photography. Her background as a model has deeply influenced her photographic style, enabling her to capture the essence of her subjects and depicting them in alluring yet respectful, non-objectifying ways. Her unique vision played a pivotal role in launching the careers of ’90s supermodels like Claudia Schiffer.
Von Unwerth has been a prolific contributor to numerous magazines globally, including Cosmopolitan, Egoïste, ELLE, Glamour, i-D, Numéro, Paper Magazine, Playboy, Stern, The Face, The New York Times, Vanity Fair, and various international editions of Vogue (American, French, German, Italian, Russian). Additionally, she has directed short films for notable clients such as Azzedine Alaïa, Dior, Guess, and Katharine Hamnett, along with a variety of commercials and music videos.
Steven Meisel (1954): The Provocative
Steven Meisel is undeniably one of the legends in fashion photography, known not only for his innovative, bold, and thought-provoking images, but also for being a favourite of Anna Wintour! Meisel started his career as an illustrator for Halston in the 1970s before switching to photography at the end of the decade. Since then, he has been a dominant force in the Italian fashion scene, photographing every Italian Vogue cover for the past twenty years and every PRADA campaign since 2004. He has also made significant contributions to W magazine covers and editorials. Meisel has photographed many leading actresses and entertainers, influencing the intersection of celebrity and fashion. One of his most notable collaborations was with Madonna on their controversial book, Sex (1992).
Meisel’s strong commitment to his artistic vision has resulted in some of fashion’s most memorable and contentious stories. He is also credited with helping to launch or advance the careers of numerous top models, including Karlie Kloss, Naomi Campbell, and Lara Stone, among others.
Nick Knight (1958): The Experimental
Nick Knight stands as one of the most groundbreaking and visionary photographers, consistently challenging and redefining the conventional notions of beauty and fashion. His talent was first recognized while he was still a photography student, when the renowned British magazine i-D discovered his work and commissioned him to shoot portraits. This pivotal opportunity launched his career, leading to influential collaborations with avant-garde designers like Yohji Yamamoto, John Galliano, and Alexander McQueen. Beyond his contributions to fashion, Knight has directed music videos for celebrated artists such as Björk, Massive Attack, and Lady Gaga.
His endless creativity and curiosity consistently kept Nick at the vanguard of progressive image-making. His bold and compelling photographs often delve into contentious topics like ageism, body positivity, and the intersection of body modification and art. Constantly challenging expectations, he infuses his work with futuristic visions, featuring hybrid beings that blur the line between human and machine.
Tim Walker (1970): The Magical
Renowned for creating some of fashion’s most fantastical, whimsical, and exquisite imagery, British photographer Tim Walker is celebrated as one of the most inventive visionaries in contemporary photography. His signature fashion stories feature cinematic sets—lavish props, theatrical environments, and surreal landscapes—often infused with romantic, allegorical touches. Walker’s imaginative play with scale is a hallmark of his style, transforming his models into towering giants in miniature worlds or the inverse. This unique approach makes his work instantly recognizable.
Walker’s journey into photography began with a transformative work experience at Condé Nast during his gap year, where he delved into the Cecil Beaton archive. This early exposure to fashion photography’s iconic history laid the foundation for his career. He later moved to New York to serve as the first assistant to legendary photographer Richard Avedon, a role as prestigious as it was formative. Returning to London, Walker embarked on his own creative path, crafting images that have since graced the covers of numerous high-profile fashion magazines, cementing his status as a luminary in the field.
Text author: Aušra Juozapaitytė
