Copenhagen Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2025: Embracing Innovation and Sustainability

When we talk about fashion weeks, the conversation usually revolves around the big four: Paris, Milan, London, and New York City. However, recently, some bright game changers have emerged in the field, with Copenhagen Fashion Week being a standout, infused with the Nordic spirit.

Copenhagen Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2025 (henceforth referred to as CPHFW) recently wrapped up, leaving a significant mark with its innovative designs and strong emphasis on sustainability. The event featured a wide array of collections from both well-known and up-and-coming designers, further establishing Copenhagen as a leading destination for forward-looking and cutting-edge fashion.

I must admit, I am particularly fond of the Scandinavian fashion brands and designers (I hope you’ve read my previous articles on Nicklas Skovgaard and Hodakova published in TAAD magazine.) And, thus, I’m confident that this curated list below, featuring some of the brightest highlights from the recent CPHFW, can serve as a perfect fashionable trip itinerary for your next visit to one of the Nordic capitals.

Key collections and runway highlights

Nicklas Skovgaard

Nicklas Skovgaard’s fall/winter 2025 collection, one of the most anticipated at CPHFW, was a deeply personal and visually captivating exploration of Danish heritage through the lens of Andy Warhol’s 1986 Hans Christian Andersen silkscreen series. The collection seamlessly blended nostalgia, duality, and avant-garde craftsmanship, merging Andersen’s whimsical storytelling with Warhol’s pop-art sensibility. True to Skovgaard’s signature style from previous collections, it featured exaggerated, almost two-dimensional silhouettes that maintained sculptural volume. Standout pieces included a ripped silk organza “feather” coat with contrast lapels, wool bomber jackets with leather panels, and panelled dresses with voluminous “mattress” skirts in wool and corduroy.

Techniques such as cutting, ripping, and layering were employed to translate the delicate, handcrafted nature of Andersen’s paper cutouts into fabric. Inspired by Warhol’s prints, the collection reinterpreted bold colours against stark outlines through dynamic textile combinations. The runway show was elevated by a custom soundtrack curated by Skovgaard in collaboration with the Danish band Fame Hunter, who performed live during the finale. This collection showcased Skovgaard’s ability to blend historical and contemporary elements, creating a poetic intersection of Danish folklore and modern fashion.

OperaSPORT

OpéraSPORT’s collection for the CPHFW was unveiled in the historic Lapidarium of Kings, merging royal grandeur with Art Deco aesthetics. This enchanting atmosphere was mirrored in the collection itself, which drew heavily from Art Deco design, blending opulence and minimalism with rich tones of blue, black, chocolate brown, and green. The juxtaposition of these elements created a visually striking and cohesive collection. The outfits featured a rich colour palette of deep royal blue, burgundy, and crème brûlée, with standout pieces such as a cargo jacket and pants set, sculptural asymmetrical blazers, and faux fur coats. Notably, sustainability was a key focus, with all pieces crafted from recycled or organic materials.

Forza Collective

Forza Collective, celebrated for their innovative fashion sense, debuted their latest collection at CPHFW. This collection seamlessly merged the elegance of the Roaring ’20s with the simplicity of ’90s minimalism, featuring crisp silhouettes and whimsical details. Held in an underground carpark, the show spotlighted ready-to-wear items such as bomber jackets, tailored suits, leather trousers, and faux fur coats. The collection achieved a perfect blend of everyday practicality and striking, unique accents. The designs played with the juxtaposition of masculine and feminine elements, showcasing shirt-and-tie ensembles paired with pencil skirts and vibrant tights. This combination of different eras and styles resulted in a refreshingly dynamic collection.

Alectra Rothschild/Masculina

The Masculina collection by Alectra Rothschild at CPHFW was a striking and thought-provoking presentation titled “Give the Girl a Gun.” This show transcended fashion, delivering a powerful message against the mistreatment of trans individuals, making it a highlight of CPHFW. The event kicked off with an impactful spoken word performance and showcased garments crafted from deadstock and upcycled materials. It was a dynamic celebration of freedom, self-expression, and trans rights, underscoring the brand’s dedication to inclusivity and diversity. The designs, intentionally torn and distressed, poignantly represented the violence and challenges faced by the trans community, also making a strong statement on the runway and, hopefully, much beyond.

Henrik Vibskov

Henrik Vibskov’s collection at CPHFW was a captivating blend of fashion, art, and nature, offering an immersive and thought-provoking experience for the audience. The show took place at the Theatre Republique, where a dramatic setup featured a long table draped in white linen, scattered with half-eaten plates, champagne bottles, mossy rocks, sculptures, and bowling pins. This scene evoked the aftermath of an opulent party, adding a theatrical touch to the presentation.

Vibskov, known for his multidisciplinary approach, titled the collection “A Bit Overwhelmed by the Opaque Resonance.” The designs showcased advanced silhouettes and incorporated elements from other art forms. Inspired by his trip to the Dolomite Mountains in Italy, Vibskov reflected on human interactions with nature, particularly through extreme sports and scientific exploration. The color palette was rich in earthy tones, accented with vibrant splashes of tangerine and zesty yellow. Playful prints and quirky patterns depicting mountain goats, fishermen, and footsteps symbolized the marks humans leave on the Earth.

Rolf Ekroth

Rolf Ekroth’s latest collection at CPHFW was a brilliant fusion of innovation and tradition, pushing the limits of modern design while paying homage to his Nordic heritage. The show titled “No Distance Left to Run” (after the song of the same name by legendary British rock band Blur – a personal favourite of Ekroth’s) began with a series of eye-catching outerwear pieces, including oversized parkas and trench coats that were both practical and stylish. Ekroth’s use of recycled materials and eco-friendly fabrics underscored his dedication to sustainability.

The collection also showcased a range of gender-neutral items, such as loose-fitting trousers, layered skirts, and versatile tops, intended for anyone to wear. The color palette varied from bold, vibrant shades to more muted, earthy tones, creating a visually dynamic runway experience. Ekroth’s meticulous attention to detail was evident in the intricate patterns and textures of the garments, many of which were inspired by Nordic folklore and traditional Finnish craftsmanship.

Caro Editions

Caro Editions’ CPHFW show was a lively celebration of spontaneity and craftsmanship. The collection, named “Freewheeling and Fallen Leaves,” took inspiration from the shifting colours of an autumn forest, showcasing a rich palette of reds, burnt oranges, rusts, and browns. Founder and creative director Caroline Bille Brahe brought a strong sense of individuality to the collection, blending heritage fabrics like Harris Tweed and velvet with an unconventional, intuitive styling approach. The result was a lineup that felt both tailored and effortlessly expressive, embodying a confident elegance rooted in craftsmanship. Standout pieces included wide-brimmed floppy hats and boots crafted from Chanel deadstock tweed and velvet, highlighting the collection’s unique, handcrafted essence.