Contemplations on ARTivism for sustainable fashion

In a world where every other piece of fashion is labelled ‘sustainable’ and nearly every brand claims allegiance to sustainability, we are still falling short in the fight against climate change. And here comes Madam Art, not only poking its artsy fingers at us but also offering creative solutions.

In my humble opinion, sustainability is all about the process, not perfection. This applies to both fashion producers and consumers. Ideally, consumers should focus on extending the lifespan of their wardrobes or returning apparel for recycling. Similarly, producers must take active steps to ensure their products have a viable afterlife, possibly transforming them into new creations-not-landfills-like-monsters-please. Thus, the process itself is crucial because an oxymoron, such as ‘sustainable fashion’ cannot be perfect — it inherently involves change, which requires resources to be invested. So, let’s put all the greenwashing aside and listen to what art has to say.

ARTivism, the intersection of art and activism, is here to widely open our eyes, shake our brain and illuminate a path forward. To put it simply, in regard to sustainable fashion, ARTivism has a three-fold mission: to highlight the detrimental effects of the fashion industry on our planet, to call us to take action, and to showcase creative solutions by designers and innovators to lessen our environmental impact.

I have selected and will delve now into some specific examples of ARTivism for sustainable fashion below.

FROM VENUS TO MONSTER

One striking example of ARTivism is “Venus of the Rags”, a monumental artwork by the legendary Michelangelo Pistoletto. Originally created in 1967, it juxtaposes a classical goddess with a pile of discarded clothes. This symbolic installation stages the contrast between an iconic figure of classical culture and the detritus of contemporary mass consumption driven society. Since its original birth, “Venus of the Rags” has been multiplied into new powerful editions exhibited in various galleries and museums worldwide. One before the latest one, crafted by its original master Pistoletto and installed in Naples’ Piazza Municipio in 2023, had continued to powerfully convey its ARTivism message until it was brutally destroyed by arson last summer. Nevertheless, soon after it was decided to keep re-installing again the newly built “Venus of the Rags” every year as a “symbol of rebirth” for the city.

Another compelling act of ARTivism is “Dead White Man” by Jeremy Hutchison. In a form of photographic series, it draws our attention to an increasing problem of the so-called fashion colonialism. Around 24 billion items of clothing are donated to charity every year: the majority of these are shipped to Africa and end up being dumped, burned, or heaped on mountains of landfill. In Ghana, these garments are known as obroni wawu: “Dead White Men’s Clothes”. Hutchison’s grotesque and absurd monster visually embodies the troubling practice of Western countries treating African nations as their waste disposal solution.

FROM ZERO TO HERO

The recent global rebranding and bold campaign by Vestiaire Collective (a global online marketplace for authenticated pre-owned luxury and premium fashion) is urging consumers to rethink their consumption habits and choices. Starting with the slogan “Long Live Fashion”, the campaign mainly consists of a CGI video featuring the famous Times Square transformed into a landfill for textile waste, in addition to a series of other images that compared the amount of clothes waste generated by different countries with the height of famous landmarks, such as the Berlin TV Tower and the Eiffel Tower. Besides giving this striking effect of the magnitude of the textile waste problem, these images also convey a clear message to their consumers to think FIRST & buy SECOND.

Vivienne Westwood is a name that needs no introduction. However, not everyone knows that behind her punk-inspired-signature-designs, all the fashion glitz and glamour, Madam V was also a pioneer in art-infused sustainable fashion activism at its finest, which legacy is still floating in the air today. Very early in her career as a fashion designer, she wanted to create pieces that were socially and environmentally conscious, rather than ‘fashionable’. Madam V also used her recognition to build awareness about sustainability issues related to fashion production and consumption, being one of the earliest voices speaking out against fast fashion practices in different ways, many of which can be seen as first examples of sustainable fashion ARTivism.

FROM WASTE TO RUNWAY

ARTivism is also a powerful tool to advocate for the environmentally friendly fashion design solutions. As someone has said “One man’s trash is another man’s treasure”. And some ARTivists are wonderful masters in making this saying come true. An increasing number of museums and galleries worldwide devote their space/time/energy/attention or even the whole concept of their mission to sustainable fashion.

The Museum of Good Fashion in Amsterdam was (sadly, in the beginning of June 2024 it was permanently closed) the first and, to date, still the only interactive museum dedicated to sustainable fashion and innovation. It aimed at educating visitors about the environmental and social impacts of the fashion industry and inspiring them to make more sustainable choices. The museum offered hands-on experiences where visitors could learn about and engage with new technologies and various sustainable fashion practices.

Another great example – “Beautiful Repair: Mending in Art and Fashion” exhibition that last year was temporarily hosted in the Contemporary Copenhagen gallery. The exhibition creatively merged climate awareness with artistic expression through clothing. It featured a relatively new phenomenon connecting art with fashion: the aesthetics of mending. Recycling is gaining creative momentum; a new generation of artists and designers are generating stunning experimental ‘second life’ creations where inspirations are coming from fine art.

Last but not least, as a Fashion Revolution (global movement for sustainable fashion) representative, I must pay tribute to the last year’s Fashion Revolution Week 2023 during which we organized a pop-up exhibition “SUTVERTÌ” featuring sustainable fashion pieces designed by the students of Vilnius Academy of Arts, as well as an upcycled-fashion-themed performance delivered by the Ukrainian designer and artist Katia Beslik. The latter was an artistic act dedicated to fashion that mindfully redesigns and recuperates in a circular way instead of unnecessarily destroying and discarding.

In conclusion, ARTivism serves as a powerful catalyst for change in sustainable fashion, urging us to acknowledge our imperfections, take action, and embrace innovative solutions. Only through the combined efforts of artists, designers, and conscious consumers, we can move towards a more sustainable and thoughtful fashion ecosystem.

Text author: Aušra Juozapaitytė