Charm Of The Bourgeoisie: Guide to Milan
Milan is a divisive destination. As Italy’s financial capital, many find it too influenced by big business and large banks (which the old Italian saying, “for every church in Rome, there is a bank in Milan” is a reflection of). These travellers tend to prefer either something quainter (like Florence) or more bombastic (think Hong Kong).
Then there are those who can’t get enough of the specific type of bourgeois elegance and refinery only found in Milan; the Milanese savoir-faire, wide variety of restaurants, and excellent shopping that the city offers. These visitors yearn to come here, to learn about and to experience what is happening at the forefront of fashion, art, and design.
In 222 BC, the Romans named what is now Milan “Mediolanum”, meaning “central place”. This makes sense as Milan has a very strategic location, close to Lake Garda and Lake Como, as well as the Ligurian Coast and the French Riviera. Florence is only a few hours away by train, as is Venice. Throughout the centuries, the power over Milan has been coveted by many invading armies, which has benefited local business and trade.
The wealth of Milan is manifested through the grandeur of its Gothic cathedral, which took a staggering five hundred years (1386–1810) to complete. It was designed specifically to impress German and French merchants. The cathedral was a favourite project for the ruling Visconti Family. After the Visconti clan lost power, the Sforza family seized reign, transforming Milan into a dukedom. In 1805, in Milan’s Duomo, Napoleon was crowned ruler of the short-lived Kingdom of Italy.
When Italy was unified in 1871, Milan became an important centre for industrial growth. Some decades later, it was here that the first gathering of Mussolini’s Fascist Party took place. Perhaps for this sentimental reason, Mussolini liked to pay particular attention to Milan, developing several large projects in the city, such as the massive central train station.
The city was heavily damaged in the Second World War bombings, but the Pirelli Tower, erected in 1959, has since become a symbol of the new, modern era that Milan transitioned into after its turbulent past.
Milanese Fashion
When it comes to international fashion weeks, the expression “Big Four” includes New York, London, Milan, and Paris. Since 1961, Milan has been the hometown of Vogue Italia, one of the world’s most influential fashion magazines. Many fashion brands have preferred to be based here, as the well-developed industry around the city also facilitates advanced garment production.
After serving in the military, Giorgio Armani became a window-dresser and salesclerk at the exclusive department store Rinascente [link: https://www.rinascente.it/en/] (opposite Duomo). Through this job, he became interested in the fashion industry, before finally launching his own brand in 1975. A few years later, his clothes were seen on Richard Gere in the film American Gigolo, which catapulted Armani (and, for that matter, Gere) into international fame to such a degree that fashion editors and buyers made sure to include Milan in their itinerary. The legacy of Armani can be studied at the fashion museum Armani/Silos, which hosts a permanent exhibition of the designer’s most important pieces and collections.
Ten years after Armani’s debut, Miuccia Prada took over the family business, then a prestigious but small firm specialised in travel commodities and small leather goods. Prada, with a PhD in political science and being an avid art collector, not only understood the postmodern zeitgeist of the 1980s but knew how to turn it into something profitable. A trademark of postmodernity is the combination of expressions that traditionally haven’t been put together, creating a blurred territory between (for example) the luxurious and the mundane. When shipping their precious leather bags, Prada would wrap them in nylon, for protection. Miuccia Prada turned this practice on its head, discarded the leather and instead chose to use the protective nylon as material for the bags. This was the creation of the first postmodern “it” bag. Since then, Prada [link: https://www.prada.com/se/en.html] has grown into an international fashion and lifestyle empire, but still with their roots firmly planted in Milan. In fact, Prada’s brand story is almost impossible to separate from the city of Milan. Their very first store is still open, at the same address as ever, in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II.
Prada also owns one of Milan’s finest pastry shops, Pasticceria Marchesi 1824 [link: https://www.pasticceriamarchesi.com/gb/en.html], and the brand’s fashion show are always held in Milan.
If Armani and Prada are typical examples of Milanese elegance, typical of Northern Italy, Dolce & Gabbana and Versace represent the complete opposite. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana met in 1982 in Milan, presenting their first womenswear collection a few years later. In 1990, they opened their first boutique here, on Via Sant’Andrea. Their vivacious design quickly made them a popular household name, often mentioned in the same context as Versace. Gianni Versace was originally from the south of Italy, a heritage reflected in the design of his eponymous fashion house, but because of Milan’s role as a fashion capital, he dedicated to base his brand here. Today it is managed by his sister, Donatella Versace.
Together, these brands represent the four cornerstones of Milanese fashion, and their respective shops can be found in Milan’s famous fashion district, Quadrilatero della moda, with Via Montenapoleone as its main street. Here, you also find Marni’s [https://www.marni.com/en/] flagship store, where local artists regularly present site-specific artworks. The shop is visiting for the interiors alone. Located in the centre of Milan, the area is characterised by prestigious shops and elegant restaurants. All the world’s major fashion houses are represented. The “square” is outlined by the arches of Porta Nuova, Via Manzoni, Via della Spiga and Corso Venezia. Inside these lines, the area is perfect for strolling, people-watching, or should the mood strike, shopping.
Milanese Interiors
Nilufar has been a reference point in interior design since the late 1970s, when Nina Yashar first established Nilufar Gallery [link: https://nilufar.com/en/], then specialised in antique carpets but today also a seller of great interior design. Nilufar Depot [link: https://nilufar.com/en/scene/nilufar-depot], on viale Lancetti, overlaps in many ways with Nilufar Gallery, but operates more as the platform’s archive.
Piero Fornasetti’s [link: https://www.fornasetti.com/en/] name is forever associated with Milan. The world he created is a universe and of itself, which the brand’s flagship store in Milan, on Corso Venezia, clearly demonstrates. Painstakingly painted by hand, the scope of the production is limited to what the atelier can create without compromising the finished product.
Technically not a design museum, many who are interested in aesthetics nevertheless take time to visit Mudec [link: https://www.mudec.it/en/], a centre dedicated to interdisciplinary research and exhibitions on world culture. Designed by David Chipperfield Architects, Mudec is worth visiting both for its sleek architecture and excellent exhibitions.
Another museum dedicated to interiors and architecture is the former private home Villa Necchi Campiglio [link. https://fondoambiente.it/luoghi/villa-necchi-campiglio] designed by Piero Portaluppi, one of Italy’s most renowned modern architects. Completed in 1935, the rationalist villa is one of the architect’s masterpieces. A few blocks away, you will find another museum housed in a Portaluppi building.
Casa Museo Boschi Di Stefano [link: https://www.casamuseoboschidistefano.it] is located in a formerly private apartment that belonged to two avid art collectors. A visit to the museum [free of charge] will allow you to become better acquainted with both the Modern Italian art and Portaluppi’s streamlined 1930s design.
Art in Milan
Everyone knows that Leonardo da Vinci, who lived in Milan for 17 years, painted The Last Supper in Milan, where it remains on display in Santa Maria delle Grazie. But the city is home to so much more when it comes to art.
Pinacoteca Brera [link: https://pinacotecabrera.org/en/] is one of the foremost art museums in Milan, as is Pinacoteca Ambrosiana [link: https://www.ambrosiana.it], home to the world’s largest collection of drawings and texts by da Vinci. The two museums are not far from one another, and so it’s perfectly feasible to combine the two, if having an art-themed Milan visit. In addition, Brera is a charming neighbourhood, popular both among locals and visitors. It’s famous for its many smaller and more unique shops, lesser-known brands, great restaurants, and picturesque cafés.
In the centre of Milan, on the Piazza dei Duomo, you find the famous art museum Museo del Novecento [link: https://www.museodelnovecento.org/en/home], home to a great collection of Modern Italian Art. It also offers unobstructed views of Duomo. Here, both the building and the art are masterpieces, reflecting a dynamic period in Italian aesthetics.
Only a few blocks away is another Milanese cultural institution, Teatro alla Scala [link: https://www.teatroallascala.org/it/index.html], more commonly known as simply “La Scala”.
Two of the most prominent platforms for modern art are not exactly found in Milan per se, but just outside the central part of the city. The most famous of the two is Fondazione Prada [link: https://www.fondazioneprada.org/visit/visit-milan/?lang=en], designed by architect studio OMA and host to many bold, temporary exhibitions on contemporary art. The restaurant and bar (designed by OMA:s Rem Kolhaas, and with a spectacular view of the city) as well as the café (planned by Wes Anderson) are also worth a visit.
The other, no less extraordinary, is the Pirelli HangarBicocca [link: https://pirellihangarbicocca.org/en/]. Here, it’s more or less mandatory to visit Anselm Kiefer’s enormous installation “The Seven Heavenly Palaces”. As one of Milan’s greatest art experiences, Kiefer’s piece holds a transformative power, as the mere scale of the artwork will fill the visitor with awe.
To Eat and Drink
The most iconic of all Milanese restaurants is Da Giacomo [link: https://giacomomilano.com/en/locations/restaurants/da-giacomo-milano]. The main dining hall’s green walls even inspired Miuccia Prada, a regular gest, to use this particular shade of light green as her brand’s signature colour.
If you’re in the mood for something more informal, we recommend that you instead head around the corner to Bistrot Da Giacomo [link: https://giacomomilano.com/en/i-luoghi/bistrot/giacomo-bistrot-milano].
At the heart of Milan’s fashion district is the chic Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone [link: https://www.ilsalumaiodimontenapoleone.it], a true Milanese classic since 1957. If you’re not a local or fluent in Italian, chances are the service will be less than ideal, but the beauty of the place and the quality of the food will help you overlook the nonchalant attitude of the waiters. Make sure to make a reservation well in advance (and to double-check the reservation before going).
Lubar [link:https://www.lubar.it/en/], decorated like an 18th century greenhouse is a favourite among locals and visitors alike, its informal and bohemian vibe is matched with great food and amazing wine. Once a transit porch for carriages of the Royal Villa, today the restaurant overlooks the inner courtyard of the Gallery of Modern Art.
A stone’s throw from the Quadrilatero della moda is Ristorante Valentino Vintage [link: https://www.valentinovintage.it], a great restaurant, servering excellent food in a charming setting. Paper Moon Giardino [link: https://www.papermoonrestaurants.com/paper-moon-giardino.html] is another classic, best suite for a long lunch.
For those who prefer a minimalist apertivo, the Bamboo Bar of Armani Hotel [link: https://locations.armani.com/fr/restaurants-cafes-and-clubs/italie/armani-bamboo-bar] comes with a view. If you prefer, you can stay for dinner, just move over to the restaurant section of the hotel’s 7th floor and enjoy fine dining served by chef Francesco Mascheroni.
A more eclectic crowd, often with intimate connections to the fashion industry, can be found at the Milanese institution Bar Basso [link: http://barbasso.com/en/], where the concept of “aperitivo” was first invented. The drink of choice is a Negroni Sbagliato, served in huge glasses, with 6cm x 6cm hand-cut ice cubes.
To Stay
Even though Milan is a very popular place among experienced travellers, there are not many truly excellent hotels in the city.
Armani Hotel [link: https://www.armanihotels.com/en/hotels/armani-hotel-milano/] has a great location and design, and recently the Ferragamo family opened a new hotel – Portrait Milano [link: https://www.lungarnocollection.com/specials/milan-getaway/] – based on the combination of comfort, discretion and luxury, and part of their hotel group the Lungarno Collection.
If you’ve had enough fashion, you might instead want to try a true classic. In that case, we recommend the Grand Hotel et de Milan [link: https://www.grandhoteletdemilan.it/en/], la grande dame of Milan’s luxury hotels.
