A Labyrinth of Wonders – A Guide to Lisbon
Travellers looking for a European city destination often choose between glamorous cities such as Paris, Rome, or London. Paris is defined by the radical transformation designed by Georges Eugène Haussman, who turned it into the most modern city of the 19th century. The eternal city of Rome has seen many empires come and go throughout the centuries, while London is the centre of contemporary art and fashion.
In comparison, Lisbon doesn’t have the same type of distinct profile. To the north and east, Portugal shares border with Spain. To the west and south, it is facing the Atlantic. This means that, regardless of its impressive past and rich contemporary culture, today it is a rather peripheral country. This is by no means a disadvantage, as it has allowed Portugal to safeguard its cultural heritage, and for Lisbon to develop organically, while keeping its traditional customs and aesthetic expressions intact.
Perhaps this is also why the first impression of the city can appear slightly confusing. Like Rome, Lisbon was built on seven hills. These hills remain important to the city still today but make it easy for a new visitor to get lost in the maze of narrow streets and alleys. The highest of them is the São Roque Hill, which offers one of the most widespread viewpoints of the town. Another is the São Jorge Hill, which includes the Castle of São Jorge, part of the Alfama area, one of the oldest parts of the city and once deliberately designed as a labyrinth to trick invading forces. But when it comes to finding the best view of Lisbon, nothing beats the 360-degree panoramic scenery from the roof terraces of Mosteiro de São Vicente de Fora.
Where other European capitals are seemingly purposely planned to show off the splendour and wealth of their rulers, with large boulevards that spread out from star-shaped roundabouts, Lisbon’s many hills and slopes make the city a fascinating maze of wonders. Neighbourhoods seem to overlap in unexpected places, streets twist and turn, while old alleys suddenly turn into giant squares, such as the Praça do Comércio, the largest plaza in all of Europe. Its local name, still commonly used, is Terreiro do Pago, which translates to “Palace Yard”, as this was once the home of the royal palace, until it was destroyed in the great 1795 Lisbon earthquake. This shows how, through the collective memory of Lisbon’s locals, the past is kept alive through language and traditions. Another place marked by earthquakes is Convento do Carmo, built in 1389 in the Gothic style, but destroyed by an earthquake in 1755. Since then, parts of the ruins have been restored, and today it is a fascinating place to visit.
What shouldn’t be missed in Lisbon? Obviously, visiting one of the many sites with traditional, glazed tile panels is high on most people’s list, such as the Museu Nacional do Azulejo (the National Tile Museum). The museum is set in the Madré de Deus Convent, founded in 1509 and a place of cultural interest in itself – in particular its Baroque gilded, carved wood, paintings and tile panels.
A completely different kind of experience is offered by the Calouste Gulbenkian Museum, located in a wonderfully brutalist building, considered one of the most significant modernist buildings in all of Portugal. The collection, home to more than 6,000 art objects, is dimply lit rooms in which the vast, polished wooden floors reflect the ceiling lights.
A more recent museum addition to Lisbon is the MAAT (short for the Museum of Art, Architecture, and Technology). Its organic and soft shapes reflect a more contemporary aesthetic, the manmade building imitating nature.
In recent years, Lisbon has become known for its food and wine scene, often focusing on organic and locally sourced ingredients, produced within a zero-waste system. Among the most popular are Sem (Portuguese for “without”), which offers a tasting menu in a small and rustic restaurant in the Lisbon’s historical centre, and Senhor Uva together with its “little brother”, Senhor Manuel, located just across the street and slightly less crowded than its older sibling. All three restaurants have excellent selections of natural wine, and it’s perfectly possible to just stop by for a glass.
The name of the city probably comes from the Celtic world Olisippo, and it has been ruled by everyone from Julius Caesar to several Germanic tribes and the Moors. In 1147, Lisbon was conquered by Afonso Henriques and ever since, it has been the political, economic, and cultural centre of Portugal.
Anyone visiting Lisbon will immediately sense its rich and vibrant history. In fact, Lisbon is the second oldest (naturally, Athens is the oldest) of the European capitals, and one of the oldest cities in the entire world, while also being a distinctly contemporary experience.
